Recommendations for plastisol heat transfer paper

[Ripcord]

I've been getting more and more requests for polyester mesh jerseys, such as the reversible tank tops. I hate printing on these because it makes a mess and I'm never satisfied with the end result. So I want to try plastisol transfers instead, thinking I can get nice even prints with these without the mess, even though it will add a step to the process.

So my question is, what transfer paper have you found works best for 100% polyester?

[3Deep]

If you read the newspaper I would cut squares and place on the pallet print and remove keeping the mess down, even doing heat press you still might get somewhat of a mess depending on the size of the mesh open.  Far as transfer paper hard to say maybe something kinda waxy that won't stick the the mesh jersey, the paper I use sticks somewhat to poly.

darryl

[aauusa]

Below is what we use and do all of our transfers in house.

http://acescreensupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=137&products_id=98

[Ripcord]

Thanks for the replies. I just placed an order with Ace so I can experiment. I got the cold peel transfer thinking that would be best for athletic uniforms...hopefully this will solve my problem.

[aauusa]

it does work but we use the hot peel 3000 for 99% of everything.  If this is the first time you have printed transfers and need a little help call or shot me an email.  I know I did alot of trial and error mostly error

these are some football jerseys we are doing right now.  the word is printed and number is a 3 color camo screen printed number




Thanks

Dan Noel
American Athletic Uniforms Inc.
90 Eastview Ave
Valparaiso, FL 32580
850-729-1205
fax 850-729-3366
www.aauusa.com
 when I started.

[Ripcord]

Hi Dan, I assume you should use poly low bleed ink for the white? The transfer temp seems a little hot, I think it's recommended 350-370 degrees. Is there ever any trouble with dye migration?

[BorisB]

Most likely you should use underbase gray and white on top, just like with direct printing. Helps a lot with bleeding polyesters. And if that is not enough, adhesive powder.

[1964GN]

I work for a heat transfer company and we use Ultrastrip 3000. We print on a large M&R Heat Transfer press with 25x38" paper. We use this paper for "almost" everything from 4cp to spot. It's my understand that we have tried them all over the years and this stuff is the winner hands down.

[aauusa]

Ripcord,  Some will say What when I tell you this but this is my tried and true method.  I use nothing but one stroke ink first.  I use the regular color max white and regular plastisol ink there 480 series.  absolutely nothing special ink the ink right from the bucket.  We do he press ours at 35psi pressure and 3 sec pre heat and 21 sec press time.   There is absolutely no dye migration at all.  when we do a 2 color like the pic we print the first color flash for 5 sec.  just long enough to dry to touch at this point the ink is tacky when hot so let it cool down a little 4 sec the print he second color.  main thing for multi color prints is to run the paper through the dryer first to remove any shrinkage because when you flash after the first color it will shrink and you will not be able to line up the second color.  remember the last color is the first color on the shirts so you work backwards from normal printing.

[1964GN]

For more than one color, in addition to preshrinking the paper, you also want to make sure the white or any light colors are choked 2-3 pixels (we choke 3px). You'll most likely be using 83-110 screens to get the opacity you need and you need to compensate for ink flow. We also underbase (choked 3px) on all lighter colors... Red, Yellow, Bright Blue etc. 3px at 300dpi works well for us but you may find that 2 is sufficient for your setup. 3 colors would be Print>Flash>Print>Flash>Print>Down the dryer.

We don't print transfers at the other screen printing shop I work at but we are considering it.

[mk162]

when doing numbers with a print, especially on poly, I prefer to transfer both parts.  That way they are a spot on match and you are pressing once rather than printing then pressing.

Just a thought.

[Frog]

when doing numbers with a print, especially on poly, I prefer to transfer both parts.  That way they are a spot on match and you are pressing once rather than printing then pressing.

Just a thought.

Then again, printing with the same ink, and pressing with the same pressure and cover sheet, someone more comfortable with direct printing could do fine this way and get a great consistent look.
Either way, you are still printing and then pressing, though granted, the otherwise directly printed image could be ganged as a transfer.

[aauusa]

when doing numbers with a print, especially on poly, I prefer to transfer both parts.  That way they are a spot on match and you are pressing once rather than printing then pressing.

Just a thought.

Then again, printing with the same ink, and pressing with the same pressure and cover sheet, someone more comfortable with direct printing could do fine this way and get a great consistent look.
Either way, you are still printing and then pressing, though granted, the otherwise directly printed image could be ganged as a transfer.

The image I posted above has a direct screened print in Niceville and the numbers are transfers.  It has taken us about 3 years to get proficient with transfers.  The number above were done by  maroon/flash/maroon/flash/black/flash/black/flash/white/flash/white then a little bit of powder and through the dryer with belt speed at 100% and temp at 411.  dwell time is less than 5 sec in dryer and the flash time are 3-5 sec.  overall temp of the ink out of the dryer is 250; the more you do the less time in the flash, plus the maroon and black flash faster than the white.   we do not choke anything when we to transfers.  we do use regular pallet with the embroidery foam(puff) on top of the pallet with a slight bit of spray tack.  and i mean light. may be getting the vacuum pallet this fall if i think we need it that bad.

[mk162]

I don't actually print transfers in house.  I've done it, but I find it easier to sub out and focus on other print work.

I am sure we could get good at it, but I find it easier to focus on what we do well and make that even better.

We did a ton of pinnies for a customer, I told her since she was pressing numbers it would be cheaper in the long run to order a ton of transfers and press them at the same time.  Worked great for her and she makes more on the job and I don't have to clean my platens after every run either...win-win.

[Frog]

I do have to say, that I am getting more selective, and no longer will direct print any mesh! Haven't for about eight years now.
I'll leave that to the specialists.