S-Mesh Statics review

[Underbase37]

I've got to play spoiler here, (I've got to get some s mesh to play with then I'll know) but I've had very nice print on new screens as well without it being s mesh, but wait until you get a few reclaims and see if it still works that good.  I know some of my old screens are hard to print with without a ton of squeegee pressure is because of my poor reclaiming skills and not takin my time.

darryl

I have definitely had my fair share of statics get a loss in tension that leads to less printability. As of this far I have not seen this in our s-mesh statics. We have only been using them for about 6 weeks now but the screens have been through the whole process at least a dozen times & they still print like new & at the same tension. These do remind me of using roller frames, in that I mean its like using 156HD set to 36n on a roller frame, but set to 20n on a static. ( If that makes any sense. ) That being said I'm sure it would be pretty nice using this mesh on a roller frame set to a higher tension too.

[TCT]

That stuff printed awesome but was shiny still. Someone told me that the ink is a mix of 2 International Coatings ink but not sure which 2.

I can pretty much assure you that there is no truth to that. Not that it would be a bad thing or anything, but just not what is going on there.

[Prosperi-Tees]

I thought it might not be true as it come from a sales rep of another ink mfg. He said they can only sell International Coatings ink.

[TCT]

I thought it might not be true as it come from a sales rep of another ink mfg. He said they can only sell International Coatings ink.

Who can only sell International Coatings? You lost me there man!

[Prosperi-Tees]

lol I thought we were talking about Green Galaxy inks that are sold by Ryonet, what were you talking about? 

[prozyan]

I have two 150S screens that have been in production about 6 months.  I'd have to look in the log (and I don't care that much about it to do so), but I'd estimate they've seen anywhere from 10k to 15k imprints in that time.  Last tension readings as the first of the month had both at 21N.  We received them at 24N, so I'm happy with that.

ETA:  I actually prefer well made statics over the EZ frames.  But that is simply for the fact that EZ frames are a bitch to fit into my old tri-loc.

[hoogie]

here at my shop we've been changing the mesh out from 156 to 160s then 230 to 225s then I've only been using 310s for high end jobs...all mesh in our place is heading to S mesh...only thing is you need to gentle with these frames. Even on taping reg marks on press I've had a few split during reclaim while taking the tape of the regs(using box tape)...there is a learning curve to these. I can handle these all day long with no problems...but then again I've had to talk to my screen guy several times about how he handle them...As for using them for bases and such...160s are laying down more than a 125...plus detail washing out is a thing of the past with these...

[Prosperi-Tees]

What kinda halftones do the 150s hold?

[Gilligan]

What kinda halftones do the 150s hold?

The math says 35 LPI.  We run 180's for most halftone work (45 LPI).  Though my guy has run it at 55 LPI with minimal moire... but I'd stick with the math (225).

[prozyan]

What kinda halftones do the 150s hold?

I can hold a 50 on a 150S without any problems.

[JBLUE]

What kinda halftones do the 150s hold?

I can hold a 50 on a 150S without any problems.

Same here. So far so good with the ones we have so far. I also have 150S , 180S, and some 350S stretched up on rollers. I do like it more on these but for statics they are still good. Just the added benefit of less squeegee pressure makes a lot of things easier. The 225S also prints well for what it is.

[mimosatexas]

I've moved to almost always using the S-mesh, and my regular mesh screens are basically just collecting dust.  I use 225S for almost everything, unless I'm going for a one hit white (135S or 110 standard mesh with a nice thick coat still works best here imo), and I have started using 180S for a lot of discharge work.  On the 180 I use 45 or 55 lpi depending on what I need from it, and both work fine.  On 135S and 150S I have used 45 without issue on both.

[TCT]

I can hold a 50 on a 150S without any problems.

X3

[ABuffington]

I notice in reading this thread there is a tension question here as well as a perception that Murakami S mesh just keeps losing tension.  For the record a Newman can be retentioned, great if you have the time.  But at the price of a bare Newman you can have 3 screens stretched to whatever tension you want for that particular mesh count.  150S Mesh recommended tension levels are: 18-28n  Typically stretching to the highest tension is not advisable for textiles.  Typical set up and handling is simply too rough in textile shops.  So we recommend 22-24 starting tension, which will level off from 17-19 newtons.  There is a very small loss after this point, but Smartmesh does avoid elongation better than any mesh.  Want to hold on to more of the tension you start with on a static?  Stretch it on the bias and gain a couple of newtons for the work hardened screen.  Once you see the results you will realize the base plate does not need super high tension to lay down a bright white base plate in one hit. Faster squeegee speeds, less ink usage, brighter base plates with halftones, whats not to like? 

John, when can I come and see you in Oceanside and show you a different static screen?  Not all mesh is the same.  Murakami can retain workable tensions in a static frame and achieve far more print life than throwing econo brand mesh on a static that does continue to elongate.

[Gilligan]

...So we recommend 22-24 starting tension, which will level off from 17-19 newtons.  There is a very small loss after this point, but Smartmesh does avoid elongation better than any mesh....

And then retention up to what?