Author Topic: 100% Poly Questions!!!  (Read 5925 times)

Offline rockerdude

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100% Poly Questions!!!
« on: June 23, 2014, 11:20:43 PM »
Ok..So I know this has probably been discussed 1 million times on here before BUT... I have an order for 490 forest green pollys for a school. gold and lighter green print, no white in designs. I plan to use a white poly underbase.. thinking Epic Top Score white as underbase.. Should I go ahead and print the overs with top score also or go with regular plastisol for those? Same order has 400 BB jerseys that are 50/50 different design... should I use the top score for the 50/50's or change inks? I'm using rutland snap white on most prints now.. should I use that on the 50/50's instead of top score?


Offline brandon

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2014, 09:41:42 AM »
Whether you use Wilflex or Rutland or whoever's ink system be careful of your flash times and dryer dwell time. That can make or break your print a few days later. We have all been there at one point! It is part of the learning curve.

Offline Ross_S

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2014, 01:31:45 PM »
If you go with Top Score on everything you can drop your temperature by atleast 20 degrees (depending on dryer maybe more).  Results in a softer smoother print and less chances of scorching or dye migration.  Top Score works on both materials.

Offline blue moon

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2014, 03:17:35 PM »
more ink the merrier when it comes to blocking dye migration and dye sublimation. If you use different inks, make sure they cure at the same temperature otherwise you will burn one to cure the other (if one cures at 280 and the other at 320, you will burn the 280 ink at 320 degrees needed to cure the second ink).

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Offline Frog

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2014, 05:12:26 PM »
more ink the merrier when it comes to blocking dye migration and dye sublimation. If you use different inks, make sure they cure at the same temperature otherwise you will burn one to cure the other (if one cures at 280 and the other at 320, you will burn the 280 ink at 320 degrees needed to cure the second ink).

pierre

That's a good place to use a low cure additive like the one from International Coatings
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Offline rockerdude

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2014, 09:31:14 PM »
After thinking about it and taking your guys awesome advice.. I'm probably going to go with top score for under and overs on both. Its a school order and same colors on 3 different designs. The order also has 300 sports grey 2000's . With an auto prepaid reorder for the fall. I'm a Union printer, so all the local schools have been contacting me this last couple weeks! I may as well get used to the polys!!!

Offline TCT

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2014, 09:51:41 PM »
You shouldn't have any issues with a Gildan 2000 sports gray and dye migration. I have never had that be a issue, and we just use or regular cotton ink.
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Offline balloonguy

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #7 on: June 24, 2014, 10:23:13 PM »
You may find using a gray underbase will help block dye migration. You want to go with something dark enough that it will overpower any migration but still be bright enough to make the top colors pop. I think the gray we lean on is russel gray.
Good luck.
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Offline rockerdude

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2014, 12:46:20 AM »
Ok... so started printing these today using the Top Score white for under and Top Score gold and Kelly for the overs! Was running at around 310 with ir gun right in the middle of dryer. streched a few.. lil bit of cracking.. I uped the temp to 320ish... Still cracks... Thought I was under curing so I did a few at 340 with one hitting 362ish on gun. Well... still cracked so I stopped.. Washed two including the 362 shirt. Cracking. I called nazdar and the dude told me that I had REMELTED the ink? I've never heard of this. Says I uncured the ink. Basically said I need to hit 300 at most on top layer for about 5 seconds with gun and I will be golden! Does this make since to anyone? My biggest fear is having all these shirts returned undercured! 

Offline Ross_S

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2014, 07:29:51 AM »
I've heard of this but seen it happen when flashing.  If anything should of happened the ink should of overcured or scorched.  What kind of dryer do you have gas or electric and what length of heat chamber.

Offline rockerdude

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2014, 07:54:09 AM »
Electric 4 foot chamber

Offline Ross_S

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #11 on: July 03, 2014, 10:20:45 AM »
You might be undercured.  How long are they in the heat?

Ross

Offline rockerdude

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #12 on: July 03, 2014, 10:37:00 AM »
Right at 24 seconds in the chamber?

Offline jvanick

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #13 on: July 03, 2014, 10:59:54 AM »
I assume you don't have a donut probe?

sounds like under curing to me too... remember that the IR guns are measuring reflected heat, so that number could definitely be way off.

Offline rockerdude

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Re: 100% Poly Questions!!!
« Reply #14 on: July 03, 2014, 11:11:17 AM »
Anybody know a good place around Indy to get a probe thats not gonna kill me price wise? lol