My DIY LED "Expansion" Board

[IntegrityShirts]

Here she is, in all her glory. Ugly and not fully tidied up yet because I'm deciding whether to order some lower nm LED's and try them out.

• 600W computer power supply (overkill)
• 12V 30A automotive relays (2)
• Digital timer from Amazon
• Heavy duty suction cups
• (5) 5 meter rolls of 395-405nm 12V 5050 LED strip (non-waterproof if you can find it)
• 30"x18" sheet of aluminum sign material I had laying around
• L-bracket rods from Tractor Supply

Things I have learned so far:

• Chinese DC solid state relays suck.
• I didn't need as big a power supply as I bought.
• Soldering all those little tiny connections is a PITA
• Don't buy waterproof LED strips

I'm THINKING that I could get lower exposure times by going with a lower NM LED, such as a 365 or a 385nm range. Those are harder to source on Aliexpress and cost a bit more (~$200 for enough to do 1 23x31 exposure unit).

Results so far were carried out with Aquasol HVP AND SP1400.

150S with a 1/2 coat round edge Aquasol HVP is right at 30 seconds for a good exposure
135S with a 2/3 coat round edge Aquasol HVP is around 50 seconds

200S with a 1/1 coat round edge SP1400 is around 90 seconds
110 yellow mesh (murakami) with a 2/2 round edge SP1400 should be around 110 seconds

PICS!









There are a few rows where I peeled the waterproof goop coating off the LEDs to see if it made a hot spot (it didn't)


This is a 200S 1/1 round edge sp1400 @ 90 seconds


This is a 200S 1/1 round edge sp1400 @ 90 seconds

[TCT]

That is AWESOME!!!!!

So all in what did it run you?

[T Shirt Farmer]

Bravo!!!! that is a super cool DIY

[Binkspot]

Pretty slick, you have way too much free time on your hands.

[TCT]

I bet you could sell the "plans" for that for $29.95... I'd buy one!

[IntegrityShirts]

Pretty slick, you have way too much free time on your hands.

You're right! I get obsessed with little projects like this. It was probably Pierre saying that he wouldn't recommend anyone try a DIY set up. I always like a challenge.

Nah not going to sell plans. I'll answer any questions if people want to build their own!

[abchung]

That is so cool.
What is your LPI in the photo?

Unbelievable.

[blue moon]

Pretty slick, you have way too much free time on your hands.

You're right! I get obsessed with little projects like this. It was probably Pierre saying that he wouldn't recommend anyone try a DIY set up. I always like a challenge.

Nah not going to sell plans. I'll answer any questions if people want to build their own!

I have been proven wrong many a time! This looks like a fun and worthwhile project!

The only thing I'd add is getting a UV meter and measuring the uniformity of the light. They can be had on ebay for $150 or so.

Pierre

[IntegrityShirts]

That is so cool.
What is your LPI in the photo?

Unbelievable.

That's the 65LPI row of the kiwo exposure calculator.

Thanks Pierre. It could be better in a Version 2. I was hoping for Starlight level results, but in the end it's about the same as my 5k Olec.  UV meter is probably not a bad idea. If it were accurate enough to see if my row spacing is correct.  Still thinking a lower UV range LED might be the ticket to a hotter exposure. Or maybe even a blend of two different UV range strips in an alternating row setup.

I think I'm at about $250 investment. The goal here, worst case, was to have a usable backup in case the 5k Olec breaks. Best case it would replace the Olec. Right now I'm using it for all screens and will continue to play with timing and see how the screens hold up to waterbased with the SP1400 and no other treatment/hardeners.  I don't typically do long run WB/discharge, largest is around 250 pieces coming up next week, but I'll give it a go and should at least be able to see some break down or softness at the end if it's a bad exposure.

[TCT]

$250!? That is great! You sir are my new hero this week!!
I'm not sure 100% if all the LED units on the market have multiple UV range(Pierre would know for sure) but I know the "Light Speed" unit doors have 2 different ranges, and the creator claims that was key.


What do you want to bet your little DIY project has a effect on commercially available units?

Again, awesome job!

[blue moon]

That is so cool.
What is your LPI in the photo?

Unbelievable.

That's the 65LPI row of the kiwo exposure calculator.

Thanks Pierre. It could be better in a Version 2. I was hoping for Starlight level results, but in the end it's about the same as my 5k Olec.  UV meter is probably not a bad idea. If it were accurate enough to see if my row spacing is correct.  Still thinking a lower UV range LED might be the ticket to a hotter exposure. Or maybe even a blend of two different UV range strips in an alternating row setup.

I think I'm at about $250 investment. The goal here, worst case, was to have a usable backup in case the 5k Olec breaks. Best case it would replace the Olec. Right now I'm using it for all screens and will continue to play with timing and see how the screens hold up to waterbased with the SP1400 and no other treatment/hardeners.  I don't typically do long run WB/discharge, largest is around 250 pieces coming up next week, but I'll give it a go and should at least be able to see some break down or softness at the end if it's a bad exposure.

most LEDs come with a 120 degree lens. Assuming light distribution is conical round rather than elliptical, spacing between the rows should match the spacing between the elements on the strips. Otherwise you'd have hot spots. With a meter you should be able to change the distance up and down until you get even light readings. If you are hot above the LED the glass needs to be further and if you are hot between the element move the glass closer.

here's a nice timer for anybody looking to try building one of these:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16&products_id=368
(sorry, just found this last night)

I think alternating strips of different wavelengths would introduce the effects similar to hot spots as you would have different penetrating and crosslinking ability between the strips. It might be worth contacting a manufacturer in China and asking them to make strips with three different wavelengths on them (5050 strips have LEDs with three sources in each LED and can be made with RGB so it might be possible to put three different wavelengths in each unit. The problem is, all the lower nm LEDs I've seen are significantly lower Wattage than the 395-405nm).

from what I can tell, PhotoPolymer emulsions are really liking 340 or so for exposure, so chances are your times would be significantly lower with lower wavelength. See chart from Ulano below:


pierre

[jvanick]

those are some awesome results... very impressed... kinda glad I didn't see this before I bought our new unit here, as i'm happy to have at least one part of the shop that i'm not continually tinkering with.

I highly doubt that we'll see any price reduction in the LED units for a while.. heck, the Starlight 2331 costs less than a 3140 MH unit... 

I was under the impression that M&R did testing to understand the light diffusion pattern from the led strips and then matched the height of the glass so that it was perfect coverage with as minimal of undercutting as you can get having multiple lights.

I can tell you that looking at the strips on our uniit, there's a perfect square between each and every 4 lights...

[TCT]

Now keep in mind, your hero status with me is good for a period of 1 week. That being said, in my most intelligent and influential Pierre voice/post- "it would be nearly impossible and unlikely someone could make a D.I.Y. DTS unit." Now some may call that a challenge.....;)

[inkman996]

Now keep in mind, your hero status with me is good for a period of 1 week. That being said, in my most intelligent and influential Pierre voice/post- "it would be nearly impossible and unlikely someone could make a D.I.Y. DTS unit." Now some may call that a challenge.....;)

In the first couple years of DTG the same challenge was issued and many "experts" explained why it was impossible for a DIY DTG. Sure enough people started making them and some were pretty decent to boot.

[blue moon]

Now keep in mind, your hero status with me is good for a period of 1 week. That being said, in my most intelligent and influential Pierre voice/post- "it would be nearly impossible and unlikely someone could make a D.I.Y. DTS unit." Now some may call that a challenge.....;)

In the first couple years of DTG the same challenge was issued and many "experts" explained why it was impossible for a DIY DTG. Sure enough people started making them and some were pretty decent to boot.

just for the record, I am not an expert (hell, 99% of the ppl here have more printing experience than I do) and I did not say it could not be done, just that I would not recommend it (due to proper light alignment being so critical). UV light meter turns out to be a lot cheaper than expected and easier to get. It will still take patience, steady hand and some basic geometry to get it done right. My assumption is that most ppl would just put the strips down and consider it done which can lead to some rather big problems. Unit done here is only few hours away from being a top notch solution.
Here's the link to the UV meter I picked up:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_sop=15&_nkw=UV513AB&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1

pierre