Uh Oh.... Not sure how to print this much detail with white plastisol...

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

This probably should be easy but for me, it isn't.  The print area is about 11 x 15 inches.

The stroke on a capital "T" measures .018 (or just over 4 thicknesses of a dollar bill) and the cavity in a lower case "0" is .058 (13 dollar bills)

I am a manual printer, so if this were black ink prints on lights cotton tees, I'd shoot a 305, do a heavy flood stroke and two moderate push strokes with a sharp 70-90-70. 

But with white plastisol ink, I'm clueless. Can't discharge it because there is a handful of colored blanks, some of which won't discharge very well. Am I over thinking this?  Poor sleeping and no breakfast makes for feeble minds.

I know that tiny details with white plastisol don't require so much opacity as do big clumsy blobs. And since it's just one plate, I will no doubt experiment some.

I think I'll grab a 195 (static, ~22 newtons---I know. I know.---2 over 2 with the sharp edge) and see what  happens.

My press *might* not hold tight enough for a PFP but that might be a way to get this OUT THE DOOR and get on to something that works better.

Thanks,
Stan

[Denis Kolar]

Try using newman frame with 230 mesh PFP
I did some small text last year with 195, but it was not THAT small. But I think that 230 will do the trick. It also depends if you have good exposure unit to expose it.

In the end, it will be a bit crOoked anyhow

[ABuffington]

Also a 225/S mesh will allow for lighter squeegee pressure to keep white ink opaque. 42% open area on 225/S mesh vs 33% on a 225T.   Tension on a newman 24-25 newtons.

Al

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

I haven't ventured into S-Mesh yet. I could get some in before the job goes out, I think. Pretty sure I don't have any on hand.

Can I stretch it and print it the same day?  The run isn't big and it's one color. SURELY it wouldn't drop off too bad for 80 PFP prints.

Should I try for a thicker stencil? I really don't worry too much about EOM.  Lots of my work is with discharge nowadays.  I do  have a micron gauge. It mostly just collects dust. 

[Rockers]

Also a 225/S mesh will allow for lighter squeegee pressure to keep white ink opaque. 42% open area on 225/S mesh vs 33% on a 225T.   Tension on a newman 24-25 newtons.

Al

I was just about to recommend the same. It probably depends as well a little on the emulsion you are using too.

[Sbrem]

We've run into this with sponsor backs on occasion; 2 - 280's or higher, but we like 280. PFP

Steve

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

280.  TWO  EIGHTY?!?

I jump from 230 to 305 (embarrassed) but I've been wanting to stretch some S mesh anyhow.  I know the open area in a 280-S would be a whole different ball game than I'm used to. No time like the present.

YOU GUYS DID GET that this is WHITE plastisol?  Just checking......  I've never had good luck pushing white through fines, but they're standard diameter threads.

[Parker 1]

I haven't ventured into S-Mesh yet. I could get some in before the job goes out, I think. Pretty sure I don't have any on hand.

Can I stretch it and print it the same day?  The run isn't big and it's one color. SURELY it wouldn't drop off too bad for 80 PFP prints.

Should I try for a thicker stencil? I really don't worry too much about EOM.  Lots of my work is with discharge nowadays.  I do  have a micron gauge. It mostly just collects dust. 

Just ran back and checked a 330S and its at 22Nm from 26Nm, with well over 2,000 impressions between 2 jobs.  We are in the process of testing S mesh now and so far I am pleased.

Chris

[Sbrem]

I wouldn't lie to you, I don't know you well enough, LOL. Yes, 280T, we didn't have the S the last time we did one, thin the ink, and be sure to only use that bucket for this kind of thing... I've pushed white through 305 since the '70's, it just has to be thinned. With a lot of "one color" whites, we will print the whole image with the 280, then a 200 - 230 for the heavier parts; bright white and great detail... good tension, stencils, the right blades and the rest is assumed.

Steve

[alan802]

150/48, one stroke, onto belt.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

150/48, one stroke, onto belt.

But would you guys worry about EOM?

I'm 2 over 2 sharp edge on every frame....not that I couldn't go for a thicker stencil.  I just don't.  An auto is still a ways off (so I cheat).

[alan802]

I would just coat the screen with the glisten method and the round edge, at our shop a 150/48 takes a 2 over 1, which would put it around 20% EOMR.  I wouldn't concern yourself too much with the EOM as long as it's not really thin, or really thick.  Too thin and your ink deposit will suffer along with edges not being crisp, too thick and the ink doesn't shear without a lot of pressure and a really soft squeegee.  That type of an image is tailor-made for a one hit print.

[Sbrem]

I'm thinking I should have looked at the art first ( I didn't notice the link) so I'm with Alan, one hit onto the belt, we use 140 here. Nothing problematic with this art. When I said 280, I was thinking considerably smaller type...

Steve

[mimosatexas]

Ive been manual printing detailed whites through 225S statics recent, coated 2/. Doesnt even need a clearing stroke. The s mesh is the bomb.

[Nation03]

I've done text like this on a 150-S. Works like a charm. That mesh is gold.