Author Topic: Surfaces  (Read 899 times)

Offline tonypep

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Surfaces
« on: April 22, 2014, 12:34:26 PM »
Sure there are a lot of ideal surfaces for ink tables, carts, cleaning stations etc; stainless being one, but for us (since we have a gazillion of these upstairs) its..................
dry erase board. Repels just about anything


Offline Colin

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Re: Surfaces
« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2014, 12:41:48 PM »
Ooooooooo!

I like that idea!
Been in the industry since 1996.  5+ years with QCM Inks.  Been a part of shops of all sizes and abilities both as a printer and as an Artist/separator.  I am now the Ink and Chemical Product Manager at Ryonet.

Offline Inkworks

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Re: Surfaces
« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2014, 02:29:39 PM »
We go with coroplast, $10 for a 4' x 8' and most inks wipe off no problem.
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Offline ZooCity

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Re: Surfaces
« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2014, 03:41:40 PM »
We often do the cheapo version of that, something called "hardi board" to the tune of $13 a sheet. 

Bonus is you can write notes in dry erase markers on the folding tables.

Offline mimosatexas

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Re: Surfaces
« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2014, 08:09:18 AM »
The $13 stuff is great, typically called "white tile board".  It is basically exactly the same thing as dry erase, but a fraction of the cost.  I used to have whole walls lined with the stuff when I was still in my garage and I would put order specs up on it before I digitized a lot of my job info.  I wouldn't use it as a surface anywhere that had chemicals or ink possibly spilling on it though.  It isn't completely water proof and will eventually bubble, stain, and scratch just like any other wood. 

All of my "dirty" surfaces have melamine coated counter top, $40 for 4x8 sheet in the kitchen counter section of lowe/home depot.  Completely water resistant, won't stain (even with matsui pigments sitting on it for weeks), and you can use those razor blade scrapers to get off dried ink and emulsion drops etc.  I just contact cement it to whatever I end up using as the structural top.

Most of my clean surfaces I just do a thick coat of polyurethane after staining the plywood top.  I like the look, it's cheap, and you can fix any issue with a quick brushed on touch up, unlike the white tile board.