White on Royal 100% poly

[Denis Kolar]

Hi. For the first time I will be printing on a dark 100% poly shirts.
White and orange over royal blue A4 poly shirt (Shiny one).

I have a quart of a poly ink that I will use and I will overprint the orange over it.

Any pointers to share?
Do I still use water based pallet glue or I need to use spray tack?
Is it better to use curable reducer with a thick poly ink? (I do not know the brand, I believe it is WM ink)

Thanks

[blue moon]

you should be able to do a layer of white and orange on top after a flash. Make sure your cure temp is compatible for both inks (don't overcook the base).

regular glue will work fine. You'll find out that the poly garments actually print very nice unlike the poly white which is very gooey and does not clear the screen easily.

Depending on the brand, it could smoke a bit more than cotton, be prepared to open the windows.

Avoid the reducers or any additives, make sure you are using poly ink for base (top can be normal). Two layers of base will resist the sublimation/dye migration, but if you can control the dryer temps and keep them under 340 you should be fine with one (320 would be better, but that will depend on the cure temp of the inks you use).

If you don't have an actual poly ink, you can stop by here and get some or pick up a gallon of perm 170 at multicraft

pierre

[Denis Kolar]

Thanks P.

I do have a quart of a poly ink. Thanks for the offer and the pointers.
This will be my weekend project

[cleveprint]

another tip ive found to be helpful is to make sure there is no big chunks of lint or strings on your pallet. the poly shirts tend to pick up whats underneath a little more and show it in the final imprint more than regular tshirts. we always try to use fresh pallet tape when printing the performance stuff. final imprints turn out great.

[Scobey Peterman]

Look at the back of the garment after it comes out of the dryer.
Some of the white print might migrate to the back of the shirt.  Ghost printing.
We usually put transfer paper in the middle of the shirt to keep this from happening.

P/F/P the white and be sure not to over flash it.  Over flashing will cause bleeding.

Good luck

[Denis Kolar]

Here it is, end result.

Printed fine, will see how it will hold up. No dye migration as of right now.

No ghosting whatsoever, I can not even see the ink on the inside of the shirt.
This was printed on a A4 shiny poly.

[Scobey Peterman]

Good job.

[3Deep]

That A stands out, looks like a simple font what is it or did you mod the A?

Darryl

[Denis Kolar]

A is like that, it is font Airborne GP from 1001fonts.com

BTW, this is the first order in 3 years that is coming back, i will have to re-print everything.
Did the pull these, everything seemed fine. Did not have time for a wash test.

Of course, when the team washed them for the fist time, they all cracked.

[Get Shirts]

Over flashed base?

[Frog]

Over flashed base?

But that should result in problems with the top colors, while this base cracked as well. Undercured.

btw, the lack of adhesion with a top color on an overflashed base is, in my personal experience, exaggerated..

[Denis Kolar]

It is undercured.
I had a sample that I kept, did a wash test and the same thing happened. Little less, but it cracked.

Pressed it with a heat press at 320 degrees for 6 seconds, looks good and it does not crack any more.
I will be ordering Wilflex Top Score white tomorrow for a re-run, they have an orange too and I will get a quart of that too.

[Sparkie]

I just started using Top Score inks Dennis, and so far, I am extremely pleased with the results.

Good Luck!

[GaryG]

Even with the proper ink and cure, it's essential the customer knows
wicking material's specific washing instructions.
You will find more than not, they will wash with anything and in every condition.