Underbase choke on cheap fleece (hoodies)

[beanie357]

Kinda wondering what choke everybody may use as a standard on fleece multicolors where an underbase is needed.
Without doing the pre flash and shrink trick.
One of my art guys came from a shop with 1.1-1.2 spec. We thought that a little high.
We tend to a quarter, but it requires preshrink and tb15 for the tac, which is a spray every time but works good thing.

[Colin]

On Cheap Fleece?

I would go at least a full point.

We typically go .5 point (so .25 stroke inside / .25 stroke outside), but we recently ran some cheap hoodies that would have required a thicker undercut on the white base.  In hind sight I would have gone a full point, maybe more....

[ABuffington]

Ok, what if you have a rush order and can't wait for art and film to be done?

A simple fix we used was to put 1 sheet of film (no image) between the emulsion and the positive that needs to be shot.
Need more choke? Increase exposure time.  Works well on spot color.  Halftones can't endure an over exposure, but this does
work as well.  Need even more choke? Use 2 Films.

Al

[GaryG]

You are a genius, but got to razz you on this one.
Where did that come from the '70's? Frog? 
That's in the Antique thread. lol

Just kidding, though we go a point plus.

[Frog]

You are a genius, but got to razz you on this one.
Where did that come from the '70's? Frog? 
That's in the Antique thread. lol

Just kidding, though we go a point plus.

The clever choke technique directly on the screen that Alan described, was the standard way of choking or spreading films, as contact prints of either negatives or positives with the described "spacers".
You guys with your computers, you're spoiled. And yes, I learned it in the '70's.

[GaryG]

Yeah I remember doing the film choke on the Process Camera.

[brandon]

There is some "cheap" fleece out there (going by price, quality is very good) that is 80/20 cotton poly. Do a straight discharge underbase, no flash and plastisol wet on wet. You won't have to choke. There is no heat to shrink anything. You can use water base tack with these. No spray crap tack. The brand starts with I. The next word starts with T and you know the rest.

[ABuffington]

So I have definitely aged myself with this 'old' tip.  For all of you who grew up with Photoshop and ink jet printers realize there was a time we did all of this in a darkroom with huge process cameras, and cut rubylith masks for hours to get all the colors.  What took a day back then can now be done in minutes with Photoshop, Separation Studio and a good RIP.  You have no idea how difficult sim process was in the old days!  I still had an Acti 204 camera until a few months ago!  A beast of a camera that took a forklift to move!  It fetched more for scrap metal than it was worth!  Those old Acti's however were incredible camera's in their day.

[JBLUE]

There is some "cheap" fleece out there (going by price, quality is very good) that is 80/20 cotton poly. Do a straight discharge underbase, no flash and plastisol wet on wet. You won't have to choke. There is no heat to shrink anything. You can use water base tack with these. No spray crap tack. The brand starts with I. The next word starts with T and you know the rest.

SSSSSHHHHHHHHHH! They are running low on some stock........... This does work well with them. We use a .25 inside choke or a 2 pixel choke at 600dpi and have no issues at all. To me seeing a halo around a base is just as bad as the base peeking out so we keep it tight. Sometimes the above is even too much even on a sweat. If your machine is tight and dead on you can get away with a hair of overexposure and not choke it at all.