Can't seem to get "Gold" Discharge just right on Black 100% Cotton Gildans.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

I'm Frustrated.  The best I've tried in CCI is PMS 116, 15% pigment loading following the CCICMS software, but doubling the warm red to .9%. It looks orange in the cup, but prints WAAAAY more yellow than I think it will.

It calls for the following:
85% Mixing Base (D-Base Premium is what I use)
14.55% CMS Yellow
0.45%   CMS Warm Red (I always double this to to .9%, but it still might not be enough)
6%        ZFS

This ink tends to have a slightly greenish look on Black 100% Gildans.
-
Has anybody got a GREAT 116 Discharge Formula? I sure don't. 

A chrome yellow would be great.  115 would work.

Stan

[ebscreen]

What is max pigment load for the CCI pigs? I would think that with weaker pigments you would want to go more
than %15 but I could be wrong...

Main idea is a bright yellow knocked down with a bit of yellow shade red.

Are you certain you didn't get re-dye blanks? We had some Black 5000's that were an obvious
kelly re-dye. Couple months ago....

[tonypep]

More on this let me takem a look in the am.

[Colin]

... try more than tripling your red.  Yea, not joking.

ZFS destroys red pigment.  It eats up the fluorescent red pigment as well, but not as much.

So, either back off on the amount of activator you use, or start by doubling then potentially tripling your red pigment level.

Fun times....

[chubsetc]

... try more than tripling your red.  Yea, not joking.

ZFS destroys red pigment.  It eats up the fluorescent red pigment as well, but not as much.

So, either back off on the amount of activator you use, or start by doubling then potentially tripling your red pigment level.

Fun times....

No joke on ZFS killing the red pigment.  I got some plasticharge additive just to try it out and play a bit.  I mixed the plasticharge 50/50 with some IC scarlet red plastisol, I didn't like the way it turned pastel out of the dryer.  The interesting thing was I just capped the leftover ink and left it on the counter over the weekend.  I returned on Monday to a Yellow Gold colored ink, no traces of any red at all!

[ZooCity]

Start fresh: 20% pig load minimum (according to cci as high as thirty, but add a grain of salt to that figure), start at 3 or 4% activator, swab test and add more in as needed. Exclude white from formula if a richer gold is needed.  If white is needed simply add pig to d white, avoid cms white.

Also swab a known discharging shirt to eliminate that variable.



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[Itsa Little CrOoked]

EB, We've seen this before. It's my ink in this case not a re-dye issue. But re-dyeing IS a problem--you've got that right. I just wish they'd track those and tell us. Plastisol=OKAY on those for sure. CCI says 30% is max pig loading. But I learned on Matsui and exceeding 15% gives me a case of the Heebee Jeebees.

Colin, I was unaware the ZFS kills red pigment, but WOW(!) does that answer questions I've had. I never exceed 3% on my red discharge, but it's only because I read that somewhere. (Probably a Pepitone-ism.) Tripling the Warm Red seems like bad Karma, but doubling seems bad also... yet I can witness that IT HELPS BUNCHES.

Chubs, I always am surprised and how 116 leftover (or any yellow mixed with warm red) looks completely different in the deli cup a day or two later.  Yellow on the bottom fading to warm red on the top. I've no idea why but I first noticed it a few years ago and ever since.

<snip> If white is needed simply add pig to d white, avoid cms white. <snip>  OH YEAH....   I CAN'T EVER get get the cms white to mix.  I started out when changing to CCI by adding D-White as the "white" in formulations calling for white, but changed my mind a few months in. There wasn't a rule of thumb on converting, so I eventually wandered off into The Land Of White Specks.  You've encouraged me to go back to D-White for that usage. Seems a little hillbilly as a solution, but what the heck. You shouldn't have to use a stick blender to mix ink.

My wife is all cranky, with yet another batch of "meh" gold on black tees hanging on the rack.  If it weren't for the foil, I'd just print that particular design with plastisol.  But I'm less than thrilled with any foil resist I've tried.

Tony, I'm anxious to see what you have to say. We dropped some coin to get licensed, so we're doing a whole lot of Wichita State Shocker fanwear.  PMS Sucky Gold #1 is not an Approved WSU  color.  In the mean time, I'ma try me some 20% loadings, with less activator and more red. (GO SHOX!!)

Thanks guys, for jumping on this.
Stan

[JmanRT]

Stan whats up man! im not sure if you ever got your yellow ink sorted out but here is a little suggestion based on what I have seen. also I do want to say that every ink system is a little different. but anyways we are an exclusive WB and discharge print shop, we haven't used plastisol in years, Literally. so what I have noticed is when our mixing formulas call for any red to be mixed with yellow to produce a golden yellow most of the time we just go with adding a little orange instead of red. if you go the rout of adding red you will have 2 completely different results when printing on a white vs a black garment. we always try to match the pantone as closely as possible on lights and darks before revising a formula for a specific pantone. just some thought though...good luck!

[JmanRT]

we did a job with this exact issue today that I will post pictures of tomorrow.

[tonypep]

Not a solution for most but Vivitone makes a brown pc. Five gallon minimum. Which brings to mind the Pavinine system we used to use. Something like 24 PCs. Eliminated some of the guess work.

[dirkdiggler]

Sericol yellow/red shade!  Straight out the bucket!