Underbasing this image.

[jesterapparel]

How would you under base this?  Lot of little details in it and going on black shirt.  I'm on a manual.
Right now I do a reduction of 1 pixel.  What mesh would you use, thinking 195 since I can only reduce 1 pixel.[img]

[ebscreen]

Send it to Dan.

Couple options:

230 UB solid under car
Flash
Green
Yellow
Grey/halftone over yellow for darker area of car, etc, might need second flash
Hilite white


230UB halftone under car, halftone for grey areas
Flash
Green
Solid yellow over car, halftone UB making shades
Hilite White

[jesterapparel]

Send it to Dan.

Couple options:

230 UB solid under car
Flash
Green
Yellow
Grey/halftone over yellow for darker area of car, etc, might need second flash
Hilite white


230UB halftone under car, halftone for grey areas
Flash
Green
Solid yellow over car, halftone UB making shades
Hilite White

Wouldn't you have to print flash print the 230 at least?
I don't usually use a highlite white.

[ebscreen]

You answered your own question with your statement. I known it seems
redundant on a manual to use a hilite, but if you p/f/p the underbase
you'll lose quite a bit of detail.

[jesterapparel]

Send it to Dan.

Couple options:

230 UB solid under car
Flash
Green
Yellow
Grey/halftone over yellow for darker area of car, etc, might need second flash
Hilite white


230UB halftone under car, halftone for grey areas
Flash
Green
Solid yellow over car, halftone UB making shades
Hilite White

Also would you even try to bring in the underbase?

[jesterapparel]

You answered your own question with your statement. I known it seems
redundant on a manual to use a hilite, but if you p/f/p the underbase
you'll lose quite a bit of detail.

So you would print flash print and use a highlite white?

[ebscreen]

No, a 230 UB will stand on it's own without flashing and printing again.
Put the highlight on a 150-180.

[jesterapparel]

No, a 230 UB will stand on it's own without flashing and printing again.
Put the highlight on a 150-180.

Wouldn't that make my top colors not very bright?  I'm on a manual and this is going on black shirts.
That yellow wouldn't look very good with one pass on 230.  Heck, not sure how it would look on with PFP with 230.
Using Union Ultrasoft ink for top colors.

[jason-23]

trial and error my friend. its never going to look like anything unless you try.

[ZooCity]

Quick and dirty:

Drag a composite into PS as greyscale, invert it, adjust curves until any solid ub areas are pure K under the eyedropper.  Bring the color composite up next to it and examine.  Make adjustments. Choke it back however many pix works for your tolerances.

I would UB this with either a 150s or a 225s, depending on the lpi, hitting it once then flashing. 

225s or higher top colors- Green, Yellow, Grey, Highlite White. I would avoid a key Black on this one.

Use a white with good matt-down properties for the UB and the top colors will pop just fine.

70/90/70 or 60/90/60 blades all around.

s mesh dumps the ink so adjust down in tpi for your mesh. 

I print manually as well.

Give it a whirl and see what you think.  Sep with the intention of going back and redoing the UB rather than all the top colors if you want to save some time with that trial and error.