Anyone using an Olec AL-53 with a light integrator?

[ZooCity]

Is the integrator set to the correct photocell?  I think ours has A/B with two inputs I think, one for each.  If you are plugged into B but the integrator is looking for some input on the A channel it's probably going to freak a little.  We run the photocell right inside the bulb housing. 

This is going on a tangent but...anyone know if the A/B photocell thing is for using two photocells- one at the glass, one at the light source maybe for increased accuracy or something?  My guess was this option was for some of the more intricate photochemical processes these units were used for. 

[ericheartsu]

it should be, right now it's going through A, but it's weird, i've messed with it some more and and i can get it to turn off the 5k light, but it still puts out a lower level light.

[ZooCity]

Check the settings on the ballast.  There's two switches that need to be configured for the wattage you're going for. 

Low level light- like it's on and bright but not kicking out the 5k watt jamz?  Or it's real dim?

Maybe test the unit and bulb first.

with the unit off:

disconnect the integrator
check your connections -enough juice and right plug and cable to the ballast? power cable to lamp head all good and inserted all the way?
ensure you have safety glass installed or, if you're a gamblin' man, have something depressing the metal lever that pops up
go to the switches on the ballast.  Set to 5k.

turn it on at the ballast, let it warm.
flip the unit on manually, another switch at the ballast

See if that changes anything so you can at least rule out the rest of the setup. 

You can contact Olec on the phone and they'll email a 121 manual over to you. 

[ericheartsu]

I'll see if i can take a video of it.

i've been able to get the 5k light to kick on, and i've figured out how to control it somewhat, but it goes from a dim light to the 5k, back to the dim light.

bulb looks brand new, and hardly used, and i think all my connections are ok!

but my intergator is missing the start/cancel button, and has to be activated by jumping the metal pieces together.

[ZooCity]

it goes from a dim light to the 5k, back to the dim light.

That sounds like an integrator thing.

my intergator is missing the start/cancel button, and has to be activated by jumping the metal pieces together.

And that's just plain silly.  Get ye to thine Radio Shacke. 

[IntegrityShirts]

I'll see if i can take a video of it.

i've been able to get the 5k light to kick on, and i've figured out how to control it somewhat, but it goes from a dim light to the 5k, back to the dim light.

bulb looks brand new, and hardly used, and i think all my connections are ok!

but my intergator is missing the start/cancel button, and has to be activated by jumping the metal pieces together.

Is the shutter opening and closing (rotating) during the low/high/low actions?

With my AI975 on startup it warms the lamp using full power shutter closed.  After it has been on for about 20 seconds you can hear it click down the power to low.  Exposure then depends on the setting on the integrator, I always expose at 5k so it ramps up to 5k when I hit start and shutter opens.

[ericheartsu]

nope doesn't seem like there is a shutter at all.

New developments, it seems that when i press the "power" button for the integrator, the 5K light powers on, then it goes to low light after 31 seconds.

[IntegrityShirts]

nope doesn't seem like there is a shutter at all.

New developments, it seems that when i press the "power" button for the integrator, the 5K light powers on, then it goes to low light after 31 seconds.

Hmm which lamp head do you have?  LT1?

[ericheartsu]

i believe so. i just took the lamp head out of the casing. i can move the shutter by hand, so i'm thinking maybe part of the motor is running correct.

but also the bulb shouldn't just fire on right when it's powered on correct?

[IntegrityShirts]

i believe so. i just took the lamp head out of the casing. i can move the shutter by hand, so i'm thinking maybe part of the motor is running correct.

but also the bulb shouldn't just fire on right when it's powered on correct?

With the integrator, yes the bulb fires and the shutter rotates closed.  Go back a few pages in this thread and see the pic of the relay that I replaced on the board inside the AL53 power unit.  This controls the shutter and was dead on mine.  I replaced it and my shutter opens and closes now correctly.  Be mindful of the giant capacitors inside the unit, these can store large amounts of power even when unplugged (I don't know how long it takes for them to discharge after being unplugged).  Don't short them with any tools or metal objects.

This might not necessarily be your problem, but it's a good place to start checking and probably why they sold the unit?  Did you get it at an auction or surplus?

[ericheartsu]

cool, i def. saw that thread, and i'll revisit it and check it out! i'm just not very good with electronics!

we got it from an auction of a closed print shop.!

[ebscreen]

Gonna be completely honest here, Olec is garbage. Perfect example
of American manufacturing gone bad. They're out of biz, when you call it goes
to some dudes cell phone.  I have two AL-53/LT1's and two AL13's.
Nothing but problems from them. Grossly undersized wiring in the 53's and
bad engineering in the 13's leading to blown triacs etc. Ugh.


That said, the AL53's do go into standby/low power mode when the shutter is closed,
switching to the set power (1000,3000 or 5000 watts) for the actual exposure.

[ericheartsu]

weird, i called and had gotten two really helpful people walking me through what to do.

also i'm pretty sure this is a shutter problem. working on it now.

[ZooCity]

I had to rebuild the gear set on a shutter on one of ours, they sell a kit, pretty easy to do.

That sucks eb regarding your experience.  Mine's rune fine for what seems like forever and in less than ideal conditions at that.