Anyone using an Olec AL-53 with a light integrator?

[ebscreen]

Does the lamp strike? My shutter closes once the lamp is lit.

I have a tech manual for the unit, shoot me your email and I'll send it over.
Has a fault tree which might help.

[IntegrityShirts]

Awesome, email sent to you via forum software, thanks!

[IntegrityShirts]

Thanks for the manual ebscreen, that helped me diagnose the problem.  The relay for the shutter motor isn't firing even though the correct LED is lit.  The relay is getting 12vdc but isn't making contact so I'm going to order a relay, solder it in, and see if that fixes the problem.  I will report back, thanks!

[ebscreen]

Right arm. Hope it works out. You might try knockin the relay a bit, I've seen 'em stick.
Should also be able to get a standard 12 volt relay at Radio Shack or wherever.

[ZooCity]

Got the unit and integrator and went through some testing yesterday.  Got the photocell/lamp calibrated at all three intensity levels.  What is NOT working is the shutter!!  I took covers off of both the lamp and power supply to inspect.  Gears all look good for the shutter motor and if I release the plastic detent stopped I can rotate the shutter by hand.  I started to trace wiring back to the pc board control to see if there were any obvious problems but got caught up with customers.  Ever had this problem Zoo or anyone?

Before you go replacing that relay, do you have the safety glass installed over the lamp housing?  There's a little lever thingy on there that has to be depressed (you can clamp it down to override this in-built safety feature, but better to put the tempered glass on there).  If it's not depressed it won't strike no matter what signal it's getting. 

[ebscreen]

From a Pmail, he's getting a strike, but no shutter action. Looks like he's got
it nailed down.


That said. Douthitt.

[Frog]

It would be classic if this Douthtitt guy's initials are E.Z. 

[ebscreen]

I've got a Douthitt vacuum frame that must be from the 20's or so. Still rockin' all night long.

[ZooCity]

Got us a Millington frame.  Called them today for a manual for our model and dude was like "why do you want one, there's nothing in there anyhow".   Looks like we get to rebuild us a vac frame on our own terms. 

[IntegrityShirts]

De-soldered the relay and retested, confirmed non functional.  It clicks, but doesn't complete the path.  Hope the new relay (coming from CA via ground shipping - fail) will fix the shutter and I can complete the swap over from the metal halide!

Nemesis:



Question for you guys.  When switching between power levels do you hear audible crackling every once in a while from the capacitor area?  I noticed a slightly loose spade connector on top of a capacitor and tightened it down which helped but still hear a little snap every once in a while.

[ebscreen]

Guy tells his doctor "Doc it hurts when I raise my arm over my head" Doc says "then don't do that".

Kidding, but I've never switched power levels, so I don't know. Do make sure that your 208/220 switch is
set correctly. And do replace any suspect wiring. It somehow seems to me that OLEC kinda skimped on some
stuff in these lights. I could be wrong and maybe 5KW metal halide lamps with shutters really are just
failure prone devices but somehow I doubt it.

[IntegrityShirts]

Guy tells his doctor "Doc it hurts when I raise my arm over my head" Doc says "then don't do that".

Kidding, but I've never switched power levels, so I don't know. Do make sure that your 208/220 switch is
set correctly. And do replace any suspect wiring. It somehow seems to me that OLEC kinda skimped on some
stuff in these lights. I could be wrong and maybe 5KW metal halide lamps with shutters really are just
failure prone devices but somehow I doubt it.

So you expose screens at the 1000w lamp setting?  I was referring to the light switching from low, mid, high there are audible snaps sometimes (like spark arcing), this is while switching from the integrator control, not the toggles on the front of the machine.

Input power switch is correctly set.  There's a toggle on top of the capacitors, what's that do?  All I see written near that toggle is don't switch under power.

They do seem pretty archaic inside, giant transformers and capacitors.  Heck if it goes south I could probably get $200 for its weight in copper lol.

[ebscreen]

The switch is likely for the bulb type. You change it for the L1250 I believe.

I always used 5K. I'm assuming your power level switch is on your integrator?
Mine wasn't that fancy.

[IntegrityShirts]

Ahhh that makes sense that the switch would be for bulb type.  Yeah this 975 integrator has a bulb intensity level control, though I'll probably use the 5k option all the time as well.

[IntegrityShirts]

GREAT SUCCESS!!  New relay soldered in and it works great!!

Now, Zoo, here's a quote you typed over on SPOF forever ago when I built my frame.  Think this is a good start for exposure with Aquasol HV now that we're talking apples to apples?  You're exposing at the highest setting, 5000w right?

You'll have to find out for yerself there.  It's hard telling how much UV in the 350-420 nm spectrum that setup is going to throw and how much the distance from the screen and the thickness (and type of) glass will take away from it.  On the above described olec my thickest coated Aquasol HV screens on a 115tpi mesh shot in around 16 sec. but, again, there's no reference but your own setup to go off of.