Anyone using an Olec AL-53 with a light integrator?

[IntegrityShirts]

I just picked up a pretty good deal on a used unit and bought a used AI975 integrator separately that doesn't come with cables.  Anyone with one or a similar integrator know how many data cables you need to hook the beast up?  I'm thinking just two, but I'm not sure.

Couple years ago when I built my home made exposure frame with metal halide light source people suggested I look for a used Olec as a light source...so I did!

Any suggestions for setting it up or initial power settings or really any input would be appreciated.

[Sbrem]

Try contacting Olec, or try their site to see if they have a .pdf of the operating manual

Steve

[tonypep]

They do.......through Douthitt 313-259-1565. They are extremely helpful folks!

[ebscreen]

Douthitt has the manuals on their site.

Looks like you need 2. They are just 5 pin DIN cables and should
be available at your local nerd store.

[IntegrityShirts]

Thanks for the Douthitt info.  I had been there before but it looks like the only PDF manuals they have online are for their Magic integrators.  In browsing through them though it looks like two is all I'll need.  I called Olec and looks like they'll email me a PDF if I email them the serial number of the unit, which should be here in a couple days.

[ebscreen]

olec.com/OLEC3/Manuals/94Mu05_Lights.PDF


On my 53 you have one DIN cable for the integrator to photocell then a standard
120 volt plug to control the light.

Looks like you can do a lot more with the integrator you have.

Remote start switch suggested, and if you can set it up for 1 button operation
you'll be cooking with gas.

[ZooCity]

What eb said. 

To embellish a little, I think we have the same integrator (maybe a 970, I'll check) running our AL-53 and from checking it out and looking through the manual it appears that you can get a control box that let's you hit start and the integrator will turn on your vac, wait for good contact, then run the light, then release the vac after the light's off.  Use that with the memory presets for yer different mesh/coating techniques and then you're.....what eb said. 

I recommend, after you hook it up with the DIN cables and get a little comfy with it, that you set the photocell so your light units are about at a second.  Instructions on this are in the manual.

Another tip: get the kit for the gears that rotate the shutter and keep it for backup.  They're thin cast aluminum and they break easily I've found. 

Right now we run ours in an enclosed, fairly primitive, homebrew box and it works fine.  Some report better image quality when you shoot these lights from further away onto a larger area.  I'll report back on that this month sometime.  Our screens have came out great with this setup but it's possible that they make different reflectors for these. 

[ebscreen]

They do make different reflectors, I think the info is in the manual and the code for them
can be found on the unit somewhere. For our purposes I think most would want the SW or super-wide.
Allows a closer light to screen distance so we're not shooting from 4 feet.


Hell of a unit there Zoo.


Never had a problem with the gears, but I do know that the wiring inside the unit is notorious for
frying. Not to scare you but there's actually quite a few things that go wrong with these. Might
explain Olec's disappearance.

[Frog]

What eb said. 

  Some report better image quality when you shoot these lights from further away onto a larger area.  I'll report back on that this month sometime.  Our screens have came out great with this setup but it's possible that they make different reflectors for these. 

 EB beat me on the reflector thing.
One of them, as Nick (ftempbroidery) learned is designed to be only 85% of the distance of the diagonal, unlike others that may be more than twice that.

The specs of which reflector are on a label on the main unit, or at least should be, They are on a unit I have kicking around

[ebscreen]

I was happy to put mine into semi-retirement yesterday with the addition of a much
more user (employee) friendly PhotoSharp unit, at 1000 watts.

The 53 will be relegated to flatstock, oversize and emergency service.

[IntegrityShirts]

Awesome, thanks everyone.  Zoo, your setup looks very similar to mine.  In reading the PDF that EB posted, looks like the lamp head I am getting is the 1261 with a standard/normal light pattern.  Not narrow and not super wide, which on the chart in the pdf puts the distance to the glass at 35-40" which my setup should be darn close to.

Zoo you gave good advice on my spof thread http://www.screenprintersopen.com/screen-printing-equipment/my-diy-exposure-unit-bomb-shelter/msg84173/#msg84173

And your advice led me to the al53...you guessed it, for about $500 shipped lol you're a fortune teller!

[IntegrityShirts]

I recommend, after you hook it up with the DIN cables and get a little comfy with it, that you set the photocell so your light units are about at a second.  Instructions on this are in the manual.

Another tip: get the kit for the gears that rotate the shutter and keep it for backup.  They're thin cast aluminum and they break easily I've found. 

Got the unit and integrator and went through some testing yesterday.  Got the photocell/lamp calibrated at all three intensity levels.  What is NOT working is the shutter!!  I took covers off of both the lamp and power supply to inspect.  Gears all look good for the shutter motor and if I release the plastic detent stopped I can rotate the shutter by hand.  I started to trace wiring back to the pc board control to see if there were any obvious problems but got caught up with customers.  Ever had this problem Zoo or anyone?

[ebscreen]

Check the micro-switches for damage or incorrect positioning. Does it sound like it's trying
to open or anything at all? Make sure the shutter is in the correct position (fully open) when you
turn the unit on.

[IntegrityShirts]

Hmmm micro switches...on the shutter assembly or the shutter motor itself?  I see a little plastic hook thing on a spring that keeps the motor from rotating but I'm not sure what exactly moves that out of the way so the motor can spin.  I'll look again and post pics!  Thanks!

[IntegrityShirts]

ok I see the micro switch for the shutter and checked that it clicks and is clicked (shutter fully open) when turning the unit on.  When you turn your main unit on, does the shutter rotate closed immediately?  If not, how long after startup does it take before your shutter closes?

It doesn't appear that the motor is trying to move at all.  I watch the chain drive and don't see any indication of movement.