Stuck M3 bolt

[TCT]

Hey guys I got a stuck bolt on one of my M3's it's kinda odd, I was able to back it out about 1" but now it won't budge either way! Even let it sit with liquid wrench overnight and then took a 1/2" impact driver to it and nothing!

Magic solution?

[GaryG]

A metal tube on end of wrench for more leverage alone with your liquid wrench.
Helps tremendously on car projects.
Of course make sure the socket doesn't slip.

[Binkspot]

If it is a stainless bolt it is prob gauled, once that happens throw it out. The stainless when stressed will make burs on itself that will lock into what ever it is threaded into. It can be prevented by using a high pressure thread lube or lube for stainless fasteners. Bolt mfg do not recomend anti-seize for stainless because it has metal flakes that promote gauling. 

[dirkdiggler]

if those stick they are generally garbage, IMO!

[Evo]

If it is a stainless bolt it is prob gauled, once that happens throw it out.

Or what we refereed to in the bike shop I worked at, "essentially welded."

This is why Stretch Devices specs those coated bolts.

From their site:

"· What’s the difference between the silver bolts vs black bolts?
All silver bolts require an anti-seize lubricant prior to assembly. The newer black bolts have an anti-seize lubricant baked-on and does not require additional lubricating. This speeds up the assembly process as well as provides the perfect amount of lubrication. This prevents your torque wrench from miss-reading the torque settings."

[mooseman]

Warning this could cause injury......................DANGER
You basically have one option as the materials are essentially welded as suggested above.

Bolt and tube and are different materials they will react differently to high temperature and expand at slightly different rates.

 The softer tube end, aluminum alloy will expand more than the stainless bolt, growing slightly away from the grip of the bolt.Typically heat is applied with a "fire wrench" otherwise known as a torch. WARNING..... DANGER

coefficients
Aluminum expands @ 12.3   10(minus 6) in/in per degF
Stainless expands @ 9         10(minus 6) in/in per degF
At that point you should try to move the bolt slightly in the direction opposite of that which locked it up then continue in the original direction. You get one shot at this.


Here is the DANGER........ IF there is oil, solvent, grease etc in the cavity heating it could cause a huge build up in pressure from the liquid. If that pressure can not vent you are building a bomb.......
Try heating it "softly" possibly using your flash and while still warm try to advance the bolt slightly then reverse.

 If you have  WAR PIGS by Black Sabbath you might try playing it backwards at 78 speed while you read this
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html
or this
http://aluminium.matter.org.uk/content/html/eng/default.asp?catid=217&pageid=2144417175

If that doesn't work ....try a credit card.
mooseman

[Evo]

Here is the DANGER........ IF there is oil, solvent, grease etc in the cavity heating it could cause a huge build up in pressure from the liquid. If that pressure can not vent you are building a bomb.......

M3's are air/water tight, so yeah. A 4-sided pipe bomb.

Buy a new one.

[tpitman]

Here is the DANGER........ IF there is oil, solvent, grease etc in the cavity heating it could cause a huge build up in pressure from the liquid. If that pressure can not vent you are building a bomb.......

M3's are air/water tight, so yeah. A 4-sided pipe bomb.

Buy a new one.

Or as a last resort before chucking it, drill a small hole in the tube where it wouldn't interfere with the mesh to vent any pressure, then heat the bolt. If it works and the threaded socket isn't stripped, patch the hole with a little JB Weld.

[pwalsh]

Warning this could cause injury......................DANGER
You basically have one option as the materials are essentially welded as suggested above.

Bolt and tube and are different materials they will react differently to high temperature and expand at slightly different rates.

 The softer tube end, aluminum alloy will expand more than the stainless bolt, growing slightly away from the grip of the bolt.Typically heat is applied with a "fire wrench" otherwise known as a torch. WARNING..... DANGER

coefficients
Aluminum expands @ 12.3   10(minus 6) in/in per degF
Stainless expands @ 9         10(minus 6) in/in per degF
At that point you should try to move the bolt slightly in the direction opposite of that which locked it up then continue in the original direction. You get one shot at this.


Here is the DANGER........ IF there is oil, solvent, grease etc in the cavity heating it could cause a huge build up in pressure from the liquid. If that pressure can not vent you are building a bomb.......
Try heating it "softly" possibly using your flash and while still warm try to advance the bolt slightly then reverse.

 If you have  WAR PIGS by Black Sabbath you might try playing it backwards at 78 speed while you read this
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html
or this
http://aluminium.matter.org.uk/content/html/eng/default.asp?catid=217&pageid=2144417175

If that doesn't work ....try a credit card.
mooseman

This is all great information but I don't think the approach will work.  The stainless steel bolt is threaded into a stainless steel insert built into the end-plug of the roller frame.  All the other warnings about being careful of heating the frame and taking your eye out are correct.

[TCT]

Thanks for all the input guys! It all seems like a handsome amount of work. Since it is only 1 bolt I am just going to use the rest of the game for "parts". Unless I magically get a few  extra hours added to my weeks, then someone I may try drilling it out.