Smart Mesh Panels

[ScreenPrinter123]

Ok, got our first set of panels in last friday.  Running into something weird: Near the outsides (by the tubes) and in the center (not just by the softened corners), I am having a 10 newton drop between that and the center part of the mesh (outsides are 17 newtons, center is at 27 newtons, both along the shorter and longer tubes).  Has anyone else run into this problem?  I've tried 5 screens and all 5 are doing it, so I must be doing something wrong here, for the top of my larger 20" images will be printing through 10 newtons less tension than the middle of the image...  ?!?!?!?!?!?

Also, someone else just posted about their newman panels being too short, I noticed that for the longer tube, we could start it at the 3rd marker and the longer sides of the mesh will reach, but we have to rotate the shorter tubes in to the 2nd markers for the shorter tabs to reach into the valleys. 

[starchild]

You mean all the tension focused in the image area?? That sounds ideal..  This and balanced, squared openings are what should be your goal when stretching a screen.

That is basically what biaxial squeegees (smilling) are used for- To reduce the dynamic tension applied to the outside of your screens and distribute it evenly across the length of the blade's edge. So regular blades should prodice the same resul with your ideal problem you're having..

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[ScreenPrinter123]

If you aren't printing 19-20" tall and 13-14" wide prints on your 23x31's as we are, then you are spot on for 12"x12" areas.  I'm concerned that different areas of images printing at different tensions may cause distortion, or am I worrying about nothing?

The tension levels off a little after tightening -- I'd say a 5-7 newton variance at most after tightening.

[starchild]

All images print at different tensions in different parts of the image.. The problem has always been the share force to get the ink moving is always higher at the ends of the blade and lower in the center which reduces the stencils image resolution optimum capability and at the same time decreasing the image registration tolerance..

The static tension of a screen only informs you of what offcontact distance (along with the -image well- measurement) that a screen will provide the desired dynamic tension- for share force, the tightest registration and resolution without experiencing negative or positive mesh lag and image stretch..

An image resolution and tolerance increases significantly at a lower offcontact distancw but has no discernable/useable effect as the dynamic tension increases.

So if you need an equivalent of say 38 dynamic tension newtons of share force to get the ink moving, then your staic tension is good..

Static tension is only a variable to use along with max image size and image well to set offcontact distance..

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[alan802]

If you consistently have to do 15x20 sized prints then you'd be so much better off with 25x36 frames. 

And what starchild said ^

[ScreenFoo]

If you have 10 newtons difference inside your printable area going to press, I'd say you have issues.  Just my opinion though.

[ScreenPrinter123]

If you consistently have to do 15x20 sized prints then you'd be so much better off with 25x36 frames. 

And what starchild said ^

I don't know what you're talking about ... that "Word Champion Burrito Eating" guy print we recently posted on the thread you started was 24" tall and done on a 23x31 mzx.

[blue moon]

If you consistently have to do 15x20 sized prints then you'd be so much better off with 25x36 frames. 

And what starchild said ^

I don't know what you're talking about ... that "Word Champion Burrito Eating" guy print we recently posted on the thread you started was 24" tall and done on a 23x31 mzx.

screens have a "sweet spot" which makes it easier to print and produces better results. Think about printing your left chest designs vs full screen on a manual press. The left chest always seems to peel off and print smoother. Same with the larger screens. Your squeegee has to work much harder to push down the mesh that is close to the frame (no give on that side).

pierre

[starchild]

The greater your inkwell distances the higher your print resolution capabilities and registration tolerance but it comes at the expense of maximum image size. So going up in frame size for larger image sizes is logical for "best practices"

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[cvreeland]

We still apply our mesh to our rollers by hand, and I haven't seen anything like a 10 newton difference across the printable area. If I did, I'd be taking it down & stretching it again.

It does sound like you should be using a larger frame though. The force required to get the edges of that 23 x 31 down to the press with any kind of off contact set is going to eat your lunch. I'd figure you'd be seeing bad smearing problems at the left & right extremes of the design.

Also, if you push beyond about a 4-inch limit inside the rollers, you're getting into the purposely softened portion of the mesh, which will cause registration nightmares out there. Been there, went to 25 X 36.

[ScreenPrinter123]

Pierre -- Agreed -- was just messing with Alan with regard to that print (yes, it is him).  Thank you for the input though!  Always appreciated.

Starchild - Agreed - I will have to see if I can sneak a 20" print on press though for an upcoming run on the 23x31's.  Don't know if we're going to get more than that (or if we may have to bump it down to 18-19" tall).

Cvreeland -- When we did it by hand - we didn't have this issue either.  Only encountering this with the panels.  Got some 25x36's but no panels as of yet for them.  Waiting to see how a forthcoming job will work with on the 23x31's that calls for a tall print.  If horrible -- will have to make use of the 25x36's.

Thanks for your input guys.

[shurloc]

Are these our panels? If so, I'd love to help you out... Just give me a call! (360) 805-4140 - Ron