THEY'RE HERE...S Thread Statics

[mimosatexas]

Definitely excited to try these out.  Let me know when you've had a chance to test them out Alan, and I'll pick some up if they are up to par.  Do you know how many Kevin ordered or how quickly he can get more?

[starchild]

Couple of other techniques can improve the process. Think about it. What else besides off contact and pressure causes loss of tension?

Imbalanced streched mesh (SS curve- "the stretcher" does not consider/compensate for the uneven warp/weft thread count).. 

Isolated tensions (tensions when measured diagonally from a screens corner to center has a considerable jump in tension from corner to about a 3rd before center then reduces at the center)..

Mesh who's elongation has to go into the teens% to get past lets say 24n- This is where staging really plays a big role in mesh streching..

Posted with Tapatalk

[scott316]

If you guys are looking for re-stretches with high tensions. We offer that option at no extra charge. All it takes is just some extra time and skill. Check out the link below to see what we can offer on re-stretches.

http://www.spotcolorsupply.com/Restretch_Frames.php

[TCT]

The S-mesh statics we stretch settle down to roughly 15 newtons on average. When we initially stretch them we only get them to about 22ish but our stretcher is less than the best one out there and it tears the mesh pretty easily. It is a older RhinoTech stretcher that used to stretch screens at a sign company, thing is frickin' huge. That is why I had mentioned stretching on a larger roller, those seem to be easier on the mesh.

[alan802]

So the first screen has made it's way through the production loop and is reclaimed and ready for coating.  The 150 is right around 21 newtons down from 22 when I got it.  It's just a touch under 21 but well over 20.  The 135 was coated but not used in production then reclaimed and it dropped from 21 to 20.5ish.  That's a fairly low percentage of tension drop with a run through production for the first time.  It helps that the screen was printed with a soft blade and 20 psi with lower off contact and those who put more pressure on their mesh will likely see a much higher drop in tension.

So in general I'm a little disappointed in the initial tension only being around 22 and was hoping they'd come in around 25-27 newtons and end up at 22.  If they can stay above 18 once they work harden then I'll consider them well done.  If they drop to 15 then I'm not sure.

[Prosperi-Tees]

Any updates on these Alan? I am trying to evaluate which way to go with my screens right now. For me rollers are out of the question, too much investment and probably not enough discipline to use and care for them properly honestly. So are the $30+ Murakami 23x31 statics worth it? Or should I stick with our $16.00 23x31 statics? Or should we go with the Shurloc EZ frame? I just did inventory of our usable statics and I cant believe we are down to so little right now:
110-4
140-2
160-3
180-5
230-7
305-4
Definitely not enough.

[mimosatexas]

Wow, how to you manage with so few screens?!  crap I am running a 6 color 2 station ghetto manual and doing one to three setups a day and I have almost 50 screens.  Between printing flatstock and transfers, having enough to cover different variables (110 2/2 coated vs 280 1/1 for example), and not wanting to reclaim every other day, running fewer just wasn't cutting it.  I'm actually thinking of buying about 20 more as soon as I get my diptank setup and finish my expansion, which should include a 120 sqft dedicated screen room (so psyched about this!).

Still haven't had a chance to try out the S mesh statics I got.  I believe I bought 2 135s and 2 225s.  I'm hoping they will help with long discharge runs and drying in issues on fine detail work.

[alan802]

The 180/48's came back through their first run yesterday and I reclaimed them earlier today.  They started at 23 and the tension meter says...22.5.  That's a great number to see.  Again, the mesh doesn't get worked very hard but not losing a newton in tension after it's virgin run is awesome in my opinion.  I was expecting to see a drop of 2-3 newtons and then hope for the best but so far things are looking pretty good.  Just the initial tension has been the only drawback I see and hopefully the rest of the screens will show similar minimum tension loss.

So to recap I've gotten 4 of the 5 back from their first print run and nothing has lost more than a newton or so in tension.  I'll endorse these screens heavily if they all remain over 20 newtons.

[Prosperi-Tees]

I manage by doing lots of 1-2 color jobs and ganging images all the time for the most part. Now for Murakami, there are screens stretched by them and then screens stretched by dealers using their mesh, I wonder which is better.

[mimosatexas]

Alan: Did you use them for discharge or plastisol?  Any details on mesh count and coating technique?

[alan802]

Alan: Did you use them for discharge or plastisol?  Any details on mesh count and coating technique?

Plastisol only and we coat everything with the glisten method and the monster max scoop coater.  I think every screen except the 135/48 has been used in production.  The 135 was coated and exposed but we reclaimed it before we used it. 

[mimosatexas]

This is a slight tangent, and may be better left to a different thread, but can you briefly clarify the glisten method?  I have attempted it based on what I've read and I'm honestly just not sure if I am actually doing it.  How much "glisten" should there be on the squeegee side of the screen?  Should it look like a layer of emulsion was actually put on that side, or are you just wanting any amount of shine above what the mesh would look like uncoated?  For discharge I typically coat 1/1 or 2/1 with the sharp side and at a 45 degree angle with medium to heavy pressure, pretty slow stroke.  The emulsion is definitely in the mesh, but there isn't exactly a glisten compared to when I coat with the round side and 2 or 3 coats.  The thinner stencil with the 1/1 works much better for discharge though in my experience as you can really push the ink into the mesh.  I accidentally used a 2/2 110 for white discharge the other day (looooong day, rush job, and I just wasnt paying attention when burning it) and the final result was crap compared to when i use 160 1/1.

Any clarification would be great!

[alan802]

The best way I can describe it is take a mid range mesh count, 200 ish and do one coat on the shirt side then take a look at the squeegee side.  It will likely still be "dry" but still look like some emulsion has made it to that side.  Then do another coat on the shirt side and look again.  It's hard to describe but you'll know it when you see it.  Just like porn, hard to define but you know it when you see it.  It will look a lot like it does on the shirt side once emulsion has fully encapsulated the threads, but slightly different since your scoop coater's edge is in contact with the mesh and the squeegee side will just show emulsion wrapping around the threads.  There will likely be cases where half of the screen looks like it's glistening and other parts do not, coat it again on the shirt side.  If you use consistent pressure and speed throughout the entire coat stroke, the entire screen will be the same and you won't have parts that glisten and parts that don't.  Coating a 110 you might see a complete glisten with your first coating, so don't use the lower meshes to get a good look at a glisten.  Maybe a 280 or 305 would be good to test since it will likely take 3 coating strokes to see a full glisten on the squeegee side.  After you've reached that glisten stage all you need to do is one coat on the squeegee side and you're done.

[mimosatexas]

Do you alternate the direction your coating on the single side (rotate the screen 180 degrees) or just keep it the same direction and coat again?

[inkman996]

Do you alternate the direction your coating on the single side (rotate the screen 180 degrees) or just keep it the same direction and coat again?

I was taught to do this and always thought it was a must. But I realized finally auto coaters and oat people never flip their screens so it must be unnecessary. But I also realize the screens I used to coat in my old job were super high mesh counts for circuitry printing and such so maybe the flip method had a purpose.