THEY'RE HERE...S Thread Statics

[alan802]

Hate plastisol, love statics

Can I get a shirt that says this?

I would like to think you could make one yourself

I'm on the fence when it comes to WB/DC versus plastisol.  On one hand there are things that make DC so much easier than plastisol, but then you look at something I saw in an earlier post from Jon where he had like 8 steps to do before he starts printing and with plastisol you just put it in the screen and go.  But then you need to have your settings more dialed in with plastisol and tension and thread thickness, mesh openings, etc plays a huge role.  DC isn't as picky with the print settings and 15 newtons, off contact, on contact, no matter, pressure...lot's, squeegee blade...just throw one in there it will probably work just fine, you get the point.  I think for us, we've got things dialed in for plastisol and we don't normally have the issues that come with plastisol printing which makes it more appealing but with a little work we could be that dialed in with DC.  I just don't like having so many things out of our control with DC and whether or not the shirts will discharge well and then with all the customers wanting 50/50's and polyester performance material it forces us to use plastisol for the majority of our jobs.  I guess the point I'm getting at is there are fewer jobs that set up for a good DC print with our customer base.  During the workshops I always set a job up with red ink on dark shirts with a plastisol white underbase with red on top then print the same job, setup and all directly after to show how DC can be beneficial.  I encourage the attendees to learn WB and DC because of the trends and popularity and to not discount it because it could make up a majority of the jobs they sell in the very near future.  I've gone so far as to recommend they do more WB/DC work than plastisol if possible just starting out then if their customers have to have plastisol then go that route but as a second option.

[jsheridan]

Mr Sheridan, since you are in my area, I can come down and show you.  Seeing is believing.  Somewhat amazed that a pile of golden poo is how you view statics. Lets do a demo with my screens and then decide.  Not all statics are the same and I would agree that a lot of statics being sold nowadays under perform compared to a Newman.  If you have the time to retension great, most companies I visit throughout the world don't retension much any longer.

Alan, you are more than welcome to stop by and check the place out, bring a bolt of mesh with ya as we need some more 230. I've been a roller user since 1991 and i'm not about to change my mind about static frames. In my eyes, they are piles of poo no matter if gold plated or not.

The stretch and glue frame has become a commodity item, something that suppliers peddle off to printers the same as spray tac. It's become something you just order along with your ink. I know for a fact some major suppliers who stopped offering roller frames because they make more money offering stretch-and-glue services to their customers.. facepalm!

Now.. if we want to talk about the EZ frame from shurloc.. that is about the only 'static' frame that isn't a static and about as close to a newman as you can get when you take them to step 2 with the offset rails they offer.
We have over 500 custom sized (28x38) EZ frames and all of them use s-threads (that is what i'm told so don't hold me to that)

As far as shops failing to reten their rollers.. yeah that's a huge problem for the shop that decides not to do so. At that point, all they have are glorified statics.

[ebscreen]

Hate plastisol, love statics

Can I get a shirt that says this?

I would like to think you could make one yourself

Eh, I'm a Newman guy, wouldn't feel right.

DC isn't the end all be all obviously, just yet another tool in the box.
We did just discharge some 50/50 dark heather Gildans, beautifully.

Have you tried an HSA white yet Alan? Seems like your kind of stuff.
Apparently colors blow but the white is the bee's knees. I could see getting
a one hit white with it more than I could with plastisol.

[starchild]

Shurloc's getting technical..  Single thread and dual thread support   Mesh inability to work harden because mesh is only supported in warp and weft directions only

That's way over my head..

I thought you guys only provided innovative products?

Sent using Tapatalk

[Screened Gear]

My statics (rigid one piece high tension frames) can beat up your fancy girly high maintenance frames any day of the week.

[sben763]

I am a Newman guy also and only use Newman mesh which IMO makes using the retensionalbles more valuable. I have used other HD mesh but the treads are thicker then the Newman mesh.

I recently tried 1 S mesh. I really need some practice with this stuff. The mesh was skewing from the pressure. I tried different pressures, squeegee blades used and new 70, 60, 65 and 70-90-70. I may go ahead and buy another as the first one I ripped while reclaiming.

[mimosatexas]

I don't use retensionables, mostly due to space and cost limitations, and I print on a manual. 

I have about 25 of the S-mesh statics and they print like absolute butter.  I have pretty much stopped using anything under a 150S, and those are only for one hit white plastisol prints where i'm doing crazy thick stencils.  Pretty much everything else I am printing right now uses 225S and 300S.  Trying to lay down a clean underbase white on a standard 230 vs. 225S is night and day when it comes to ease of printing and how clean the final print is (again, on a manual).  I understand people with autos who use standard mesh on rentensionable frames at higher mesh counts all day long without issue, but if you havent tried to print 300 shirts manually recently and compared how the S mesh prints vs standard mesh, you really can't understand how much easier they make the process.

[abchung]

Trying to lay down a clean underbase white on a standard 230 vs. 225S is night and day when it comes to ease of printing and how clean the final print is (again, on a manual).

The specs for 230 or 225 specs from Saati and Nittoku has puzzled me for a while.
In metric dimension they both have the same number of threads per centimetre, but in imperial units they are different.

Saati: 90thread/centimetre (230 thread/inch)
Nittoku: 90thread/centimetre(225 thred/inch)
Both have the same thread diametre: 40 micron.

1 inch =2.56 cm
2.56*90 = 228.6 Threads

Do they actually contain the same number of threads per inch? I think they do.

[Rockers]

Trying to lay down a clean underbase white on a standard 230 vs. 225S is night and day when it comes to ease of printing and how clean the final print is (again, on a manual).

The specs for 230 or 225 specs from Saati and Nittoku has puzzled me for a while.
In metric dimension they both have the same number of threads per centimetre, but in imperial units they are different.

Saati: 90thread/centimetre (230 thread/inch)
Nittoku: 90thread/centimetre(225 thred/inch)
Both have the same thread diametre: 40 micron.
Well if you would be precise 225 per inch would equal 88.58 per centimeter which of course is not possible. So they probably do some rounding up.

1 inch =2.56 cm
2.56*90 = 228.6 Threads

Do they actually contain the same number of threads per inch? I think they do.

[ABuffington]

Some notes on recent comments.  225 vs 230, or just about any higher mesh count comparison. Thread count varies slightly.  While we would like to believe that there are 225/230 threads per inch it can vary by a few threads within an inch, especially in higher mesh counts.  The more important feature of mesh is how square the mesh opening stays under tension.  Square, precise openings under tension can be affected by the quality of the mesh.  The more square it is the easier it is to control moire.

I have no issue with Newmans.  However mesh technology has changed a lot since they were developed to combat elongating mesh.  Our mesh retains tensions well.  Just like a car lot there are porches and Yugos and not all statics are the same.  High tension HD meshes have good print quality and the retensioning ability is a nice quality control feature for predictable printing, but statics with our mesh reach a good working tension, no maintenance needed, and print quality is excellent.  Once I have a screen that holds dot on dot register from the beginning to print 10,000 with good opacity and sharp details I know it's the mesh that was the reason, whether you like Newman's or Statics, quality mesh works better.  Expose the Quality.

Original Art and Final Print --  Printed by Motion Textile in Sacramento Ca.

[inkman996]

You can peddle it as the latest and greatest device to ever hit the market..

You can stretch it with NASA rated equipment made from titanium and powered by the wind, sun or gravitational pull

but it's still.. a.. static.. frame that loses tension. every. time. you. print. it.. 

There is not truth to that. Good statics will work harden if set up correctly. If what you say is true then screens we have that are several years old would have zero newtons by this point, yet they are in the high teens, low twenties.

[tonypep]

Of course statics work harden. They just harden at a lower tension which is fine by me for what we do. Does not affect final outcome one iota.
I'm not a tension snob

[inkman996]

OK these Murakami stock screens are interesting. Does anyone have a guestimate of a typical 160 Murakami S Mesh cost from them? I am afraid of jaw dropping pricing.

[Prosperi-Tees]

Yeah I can never find pricing. I wondered what would be cheaper, me shipping them my 20 screens to have stretched or just buying a complete murakami frame.

[Frog]

Yeah I can never find pricing. I wondered what would be cheaper, me shipping them my 20 screens to have stretched or just buying a complete murakami frame.

I am wondering if they do offer re-stretches, or have a list of "approved" S-Mesh re-stretchers.