screen printing > Equipment
MHM E-Type
blue moon:
the display only counts the last 10 shirts. . . so it tends to get skewed as you stop and start.
300 to start is actually pretty good. It took me weeks to get past 100. It took almost 6 months to break 750, but my experience was pretty limited. You'll get there fast.
I don't think I ever flooded at 8, that's pretty fast, especially for a white.
If you flood too hard, you'll hit the plattens at the end of the stroke (when the flood bars come back down). Make sure you are not banging them too hard.
did you figure out the squeegee cylinders being able to go up?
pierre
Screened Gear:
Pierre,
You can print 750 with you loading and unloading the shirts??? that can't be right. It was a lot harder then I thought it would be to do 300. I don?t think I will get much past 400 by self. I may have to move the dryer position to get any faster.
I am flooded at 8 but the white is Unions cotton white. It is as soft and printable as any other color (I have printed it through a 305 with no problems had to push hard). I am sure I need to change what white I use to get a more opaque print in 2 layers. Even on a manual I print 3 layers. (156 screen) it leaves a glass like print that is really thin and bright white.
I did figure out the squeegee / Flood bar lifting thing. That is what I needed. It is easy to change them out that way. Is there any other hidden controls that I need to know about? Maybe they have a secret book that has all the hidden controls?(manual)
On another note. I am going to buy the FPU they told me I can get it for $3000. Then I am just going to have the Drill Jig made. They want $500 for it. It is just a piece of metal white 2 holes and a few guilds. I can have a machine shop build it for maybe $100.
Thanks Pierre.
blue moon:
--- Quote from: Screened Gear on April 16, 2011, 04:21:07 PM ---Pierre,
You can print 750 with you loading and unloading the shirts??? that can't be right. It was a lot harder then I thought it would be to do 300. I don?t think I will get much past 400 by self. I may have to move the dryer position to get any faster.
I am flooded at 8 but the white is Unions cotton white. It is as soft and printable as any other color (I have printed it through a 305 with no problems had to push hard). I am sure I need to change what white I use to get a more opaque print in 2 layers. Even on a manual I print 3 layers. (156 screen) it leaves a glass like print that is really thin and bright white.
I did figure out the squeegee / Flood bar lifting thing. That is what I needed. It is easy to change them out that way. Is there any other hidden controls that I need to know about? Maybe they have a secret book that has all the hidden controls?(manual)
On another note. I am going to buy the FPU they told me I can get it for $3000. Then I am just going to have the Drill Jig made. They want $500 for it. It is just a piece of metal white 2 holes and a few guilds. I can have a machine shop build it for maybe $100.
Thanks Pierre.
--- End quote ---
HELL NO! On my own, loading and unloading best case scenario (with shirts that fit snug on the plattens) I can get close to 500. I think that might have happened once or twice.
One operator, if averaging 300-350 I am happy with it. We run two ppl for anything over 100 pieces and can hit some pretty good numbers on simpler prints. We'll hit 750-800 in operating speeds for many runs and have gone over a 1000 on several occasions. Now this is running speed. Actual production is 400-500 per hour (with no major issues).
The reality is, most of the orders are small and we don't get a chance to run fast very often. So it all boils down to what you can do with small runs!
pierre
Screened Gear:
Pierre,
Are you running your press in auto mode or pushing the start button every time? I did both and the auto mode can be a little scary but it does make you have to be consistent.
I am sure I can load over 700 if i was just loading. It is so easy to load shirts on a MHM. I have a Workhorse Manual and the shirts always get stuck under the boads on the knobes. On the MHM there is nothing down there to get stuck on...I am loving this press. I also like not havign to turn knobes to tighten the boards. I have calists on my hands from the knobes on my Workhorse.
blue moon:
we run on auto now. My guy that is leaving keeps his foot on the pedal as a brake. He lets it go when getting a new shirt.
I run it straight up auto and will find the pedal and press it if something is causing a delay. It took a very long time to get used to auto mode. I would suggest start with it, use the pedal as the brake and you'll learn right from the start.
Auto mode also runs faster. In manual and pushing the button (or stepping on the pedal), the print cycle starts after you let og or push the button. In auto, it starts earlier. In the end auto will print faster, in some cases it will run 100 shirts per hour faster.
pierre
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version